The generational shift is in full swing at Ramey Wine Cellars. Though founder David Ramey still plays a vital role, the “Professor of Chardonnay” and his wife, Carla, are now letting their children, Claire and Alan, handle the heavy lifting.
That includes getting a handle on their Westside Farms vineyard, in the heart of the Russian River Valley, on Westside Road, just across the way from Arista. The Rameys bought the site in 2012, after which they leased it out to help pay it off. But since 2022 it’s been under their full control, and a recent ambitious replanting of three quarters of the site completed the makeover.
The 75-acre vineyard is certainly bucolic, situated alongside the Russian River, surrounded by oak trees and with a falling down 1940s hop kiln adding some rustic charm. There are currently 36 acres of vines planted, and some of the original 1989 plantings of Chardonnay are still in production, along with Ramey’s Pinot Noir vines from 2001, 2007, 2017 and 2020.
The Rameys have brought in some new clonal selections, including Mt. Eden Pinot Noir, to help increase the diversity, while the majority of the site’s Pinot Noir vines remain Dijon and Pommard clones.
The newer parcels have wider spaced vine rows, to help combat mildew pressure spurred by humidity from the river and the surrounding trees that serve as a windbreak, hindering airflow.
Deterring Vineyard Pests and Disease with Hybrid Vines
There was also a fair amount of virus in the vineyard—hence the replant—and the newer plantings tend to be cane pruned, to provide for new wood each growing season (cordon-trained vines require more pruning cuts, and more opportunities for infection).
It’s no surprise that Pinot Noir and Chardonnay remain the players here—though there is a curious 2-acre sliver on the edge, bordering the river …
“Caminante Blanc,” says Claire with an inkling of humor, as she’s pretty sure I haven’t heard of it. I haven’t …
The new hybrid combines Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignane and Chardonnay along with Vitis arizonica and Vitis rupestris, two native North American grapes (have fun winning some bar bets with that info). The idea behind the UC Davis–led effort was to create a vine resistant to Pierce’s disease. PD, as it’s referred to, is a deadly vine malady spread by the glassy-winged sharpshooter. By planting Caminante Blanc as a fireline between the main vineyard and the sharpshooter-inhabited riverbank, the Rameys hope to prevent new PD infections. It’s a gamble, but as Claire notes, it’s more sustainable to sacrifice a few rows to Caminante Blanc than to continue replacing Chardonnay vines.
Ramey Westside Farms Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Barrel Sample Tasting
Back to the Pinot Noir, the debut Ramey Westside Farms Pinot Noir 2022 (90 points, $85) shows streamlined raspberry and blood orange coulis notes and pretty perfume. Knowing the Rameys’ penchant for producing more than a few single-vineyard cuvées, I asked if the site would eventually be divvied up into block selections.
“We thought we might have a block selection, intuitively,” says Alan. “But we also decided to just listen to the wine rather than force anything on it. And in the end, we found the blend from the entire site wound up being the better wine.”
Tasting through the blocks shows why. The site’s oldest Pinot Noir vines (2001), in Block 3, have now been converted to cane pruning; a sample of the 2024 Block 3 shows a skinny but fresh and brisk profile of bright red fruit and long, pinpoint tannins.
Neighboring Block 4 is still cordon-trained, and the 2024 sample shows a more typical Russian River Valley profile of punchy, dark cherry and pomegranate fruit.
Both are interesting, but neither feels complete on its own. In contrast, the 2024 Block 5 sample feels more complete, with a mouthfilling solid core of black cherry fruit and spice, but it doesn’t have a lot of length.
The length comes from the fruit in blocks 7, 8 and 9. A blended 2024 sample of the three shows deliciously dark cherry fruit with a sappy intensity. It feels polished, but there’s serious spine nicely buried within.
“We’re not afraid of tannin,” says Alan, frankly.
“Some people think Pinot Noir should be light,” says Claire. “But if you have good fruit, why wouldn’t you let it express itself fully?”
The final blend of the 2024 Ramey Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Westside Farms is still aging in barrels. A sample shows off that buried spine. The wine also shows both dusty and succulent elements, as the fruit is still a bit tight. But there’s cut and length and a sappy energy waiting to unfurl here. And there’s still time to queue up for it, as this bottling won’t be out until 2027.
From experimental grapes to the tried-and-true, things are moving along just swimmingly for the Ramey clan.
Visit the Ramey Wine Cellars Tasting Room
Ramey Cellars
Tours and tastings daily, $50
Address: 25 Healdsburg Ave, Healdsburg, Calif. 95448
Phone: (707) 433-0870
Website: rameywine.com
Read more of James Molesworth's Winery Intels, hear his interviews with leading winemakers on Wine Spectator's Straight Talk podcast, and follow him on Instagram at @jmolesworth1.
