Sancerres Worth the Spend, Up to 92 Points

For Sauvignon Blanc values, there are plenty of places to turn, especially New Zealand and California. But Sancerre—the most famous Sauvignon Blanc appellation in the world—remains the finest expression. In fact, winegrowers in this central Loire Valley region prefer not to mention the grape at all; they see Sauvignon Blanc as simply a vehicle for expressing Sancerre’s prime and unique mosaic of clay, limestone, gravel and flint soils.

A combination of scarcity and insatiable demand has driven up prices—you can expect to pay upwards of $30 for high quality versions. Yet, as this week’s Tasting Highlights demonstrates, there are plenty of heavy-hitting wines to be had for relatively accessible prices.

I advise Sancerre fans to stick to blue-chip names, like Henri Bourgeois, and also to seek out the appellation’s rising stars. There are the excellent wines of Gérard Fiou, helmed by Florent Bourgeois. And at Claude Riffault, Stéphane Riffault is making some of the estate’s best wines, which are structured, pure and mineral-intense, since taking over from his father. “My Burgundian training helped me understand the importance of choosing the right aging methods and durations to build texture, add complexity, and elevate sense of place,” he told me. Sure enough, they could be confused with flinty, leesy white Burgundy, and I find they are better with every new vintage.

A new discovery for me this year was Firmin Dezat. The Dezat family’s history in Sancerre goes back to the 1500s, and the 18th-generation Firmin started his own small domaine in 2020 with a single-site winemaking approach. He extends time on lees and ages his wines in large neutral barrels, which impart a distinctive texture and complexity. He describes his approach as a return to the winemaking of his grandfather’s era, when oak was cheaper than stainless steel.

Don’t forget about the second most famous Sauvignon Blanc appellation, Pouilly-Fumé, located just across from Sancerre on the right bank of the Loire River. Its flint-rich soils yield smoky, bright wines with slightly richer fruit profiles. Dezat and Alain Cailbourdin at Domaine A. Cailbourdin each make excellent versions well worth seeking out.

Read on to get our expert scores and full tasting notes!

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