Sonoma County is one big Goldilocks zone for grapevines. Its sprawling expanse covers numerous microclimates where a diverse range of grapes can thrive. This week’s Tasting Highlights includes Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from areas well-suited to specific grapes, as well as regional blends, with scores up to 93 points.
Among the wineries featured, all but one are based in Sonoma. That outlier is Caterwaul, a brand founded by two Napa-based friends: winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown and farmer and vineyard manager Matt Hardin. For this fresh and pure Sonoma Cabernet, the duo didn’t stray too far from Napa; they source grapes from an old-vine vineyard in the southeast corner of Sonoma County, almost touching the Napa County line. Another Sonoma Cabernet is Goldschmidt’s juicy bottling, which is bright and direct in feel. The Stonemason Hill vineyard, in Alexander Valley, is relatively new, and founder Nick Goldschmidt and his daughter, Katherine, make this wine together.
Zinfandel is synonymous with Sonoma County, and here we have wines from two different regions. The San Lorenzo vineyard is owned by Pete Seghesio of San Lorenzo and Journeyman and has been in the family since 1896, when Seghesio’s grandfather purchased it. Ridge’s 2022 bottling has a hefty dose of Petite Sirah and a dash of Alicante Bouschet, resulting in a brooding style with concentrated flavors and tight tannins. Meanwhile, Pedroncelli’s Mother Clone was similarly established in the late 1800s, but it was largely replanted in the 1980s using budwood from the original “Mother Clone” vines. The 2023 is brooding and potent, with dark blackberry and dried cherry flavors.
For whites, the three Sauvignon Blancs in this lineup are refreshing and distinctive. They range from Aperture’s stylish, barrel-fermented version with a touch of Sémillon lending lanolin, beeswax and toasted green tea notes to Banshee’s fragrant white, which includes a dash of Muscat Canelli to amp up the orange blossom, jasmine and sage aromas. Horse & Plow produces a fresh and clean style, which is aged six months sur lie in neutral French oak, adding richness to the intense lemon curd, tangerine and dried mango flavors.
Read on for scores and full tasting notes!
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