What’s Old Is New Again

The steak house is revitalized for today’s generation, while aged wines also draw new fans

Le Bon Georges chef Loïc Lobet (left) and wine director Frédéric Sénéchal (standing, right of the chef) serve guests at the restaurant’s chef’s table in Paris.
Chef Loïc Lobet (left) and wine director Frédéric Sénéchal (standing, right of the chef) provide guests at the chef’s table a personal experience at new Grand Award winner Le Bon Georges in Paris. (Evan Sung)

Sometimes the hot new thing is something old—like an outstanding wine with some cellar age on it. “Seeing the metamorphosis of a wine into its full potential requires time,” says Nishaan Chavda, owner of Best of Award of Excellence winner Choy in Nashville, Tennessee. This year, with the announcement of Wine Spectator’s 2025 Restaurant Award winners, trends such as classic steak house cuisine, Old World wines, older vintages and unsung grapes have risen to the fore. 

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